The City of San Marino is the walled capital of the republic, on the shoulder of Mount Titano. One full day covers the Guaita and Cesta towers and the Witches’ Pass between them, the Palazzo Pubblico, the Basilica and the State Museums on one pass. Stay the night: the centre empties after the last coach, and the ridge at dusk is the reason to come.
A walled town of about 4,000 people on a 739-metre ridge, capital of a republic that dates itself to 301. Three towers run along the crest, the Adriatic sits 27 km away, and by six in the evening the day coaches have gone and the town is yours.
The oldest of the three towers, eleventh century, clamped to the cliff edge with the Adriatic on one side and the Apennines on the other. Its cells held prisoners until 1970. Come at opening, before the coaches reach the top.
The cobbled Witches’ Pass runs along the crest from the first tower to the second, on the highest point of Titano. Inside the Cesta, the Museum of Ancient Arms holds medieval blades to nineteenth-century firearms.
The seat of government, rebuilt 1884 to 1894 to designs by Francesco Azzurri, fronts the republic’s main square. From mid-June to late September the Guardia di Rocca, founded 1754, changes the sentry at its door.
The neoclassical Basilica, consecrated in 1838, holds the relics of Marinus. Next door, the small church of San Pietro keeps two niches cut in the rock, by tradition the beds of Marinus and his companion Leo.
Four floors of Palazzo Pergami Belluzzi, from Bronze Age finds on Titano to the gifts foreign states sent the republic. The best single hour for understanding why this country still exists.
A two-minute cable car, running since 1959, drops off the cliff face to the market town below. Borgo Maggiore is where the mountain meets ordinary life, with the stamp and coin museum on the main street.
The main gate, built in 1361 and rebuilt in 1451, still carries plaques banning foreigners from entering armed. The Franciscan church beside it is the oldest in the town, and its museum holds a Guercino.
The smallest tower, pentagonal, with its only door seven metres off the ground. It is closed to visitors, and that keeps the path out to it quiet while the first two towers queue.
A quarry cut in the 1800s for stone to restore the Palazzo Pubblico, turned crossbow arena in 1971. On 3 September it hosts the Palio delle Balestre, a contest documented since 1537.
The Rimini line opened in 1932 and was bombed out in 1944, when its tunnels sheltered refugees. About 800 metres of track were restored in 2012, and the AB-03 railcar sits back on the rails.
A public holiday marking liberation from Cardinal Alberoni’s occupation in 1740.
The 1906 assembly of heads of families, kept as a national holiday.
The two new heads of state process in historical dress to the Basilica.
The old Medieval Days, renamed: 800 re-enactors, archery and street shows.
Foundation day: procession, parade and the Palio delle Balestre in the quarry.
The second handover of the year, with the same procession and ceremony.
Historic and modern rally cars on the republic’s hill roads.
Christmas lights and markets through the old town into early January.
The nearest airport, 27 km away and named for Rimini and San Marino both. A taxi up the mountain is the fastest link; the bus leaves from Rimini station.
About 132 km away and the better-connected hub. Shuttle coaches run to Rimini; by car it is the A14 motorway, then the SS72 up to Titano.
San Marino has no railway. The daily bus from Rimini station takes about 50 minutes to Piazzale Calcigni, below the walls. One-way fare €7.
Two minutes from Borgo Maggiore to the old town, every 15 minutes, €3 one way. Park in Borgo and ride up rather than circling the car parks on top.
Thin flatbread of flour, lard and water, cooked on a hot plate.
Palm-rolled pasta, served with meat ragù and pecorino.
Baked pasta rolls of ham, cheese and beef under white sauce.
Bean soup with pork rind, a Christmas dish.
Stale bread, cornmeal, figs, raisins and honey, baked in a tin.
Wafer layers and hazelnut cream, named for the three towers.
A milk, sugar and egg custard close to crème caramel.
Cherries steeped in red wine and sugar, eaten with bread.
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