Roatan is a 59 km sliver of limestone off the Honduran coast with the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef running the length of it, close enough to swim to in places. Dive or snorkel the west end, base yourself in West End village for walkable dive shops and food, take a day for the Garifuna town of Punta Gorda, and give the East End a full day for beaches nobody is on.
The reef is the whole argument. It sits a few hundred metres offshore along the north and west coasts, drops into walls at 15 to 45 metres, and is reachable from the sand at West Bay without a boat. Around it: two municipalities, an English-speaking island culture older than the Spanish one, and an east half most visitors never drive to.
The reef crest sits a short swim off the south end of the beach, so the best snorkelling on the island needs no boat. Come before the cruise tenders land in the late morning, and stay off the coral: the shallow crest is where fins do the damage.
A crack in the reef that opens into vertical canyons you swim through rather than over, and the one Roatan dive people come back for. Boat access only, so ask about it when you book the week rather than on the morning.
A 70 m cargo ship sunk deliberately in 1997 as an artificial reef, now broken into sections on sand at about 30 m. Green morays and grouper hold station in the hull, and the mast is the photograph. Depth makes it a short dive, so plan it as the first of the day.
A community organisation founded in January 2005 by dive operators watching the Sandy Bay to West End reserve degrade. The tag every diver and snorkeller buys pays for the patrols and the mooring buoys that keep anchors off the coral. Their West End office also runs the lionfish culling.
The first Garifuna settlement in Central America, founded after the British put some 3,000 deportees from St Vincent ashore here on 12 April 1797. It is a working town rather than an exhibit, so go for the food and the drumming and ask before photographing anyone.
Forty acres of trails through native Bay Islands plants, with a climb up Car Mountain that opens onto the north coast and the reef line. The uphill section is steep and unshaded in parts, so take water and go early.
The longest empty beach on Roatan, an hour and a half east of West End on a road that deteriorates as it goes. There is almost nothing here beyond a couple of beach bars, which is the point. Bring cash and leave before dark.
The crescent at the north end of West End village, with shallow snorkelling off the sand and a wall dive straight out from it. Every dive shop, bar and kitchen in West End is a walk away, which is why most people who stay a week end up here every evening.
Twenty acres above West Bay holding more than 200 plant species, a suspension bridge over the ravine and an animal enclosure with macaws and capuchins. The gardens and the view are the reason to go; the animal handling is a personal call.
Sherman Arch began protecting black spiny-tailed iguanas on his own land here in 1980. The colony now runs to several thousand and they are entirely unbothered by people, so feeding time is close range and slightly alarming.
A marine research and education centre working here since 1989.
The regional veda runs to the end of June, so local lobster is off the menu until July.
Punta Gorda re-enacts the 1797 landing by boat, then drums and food all day.
Honduran holy week. Mainland families fill the beaches and everything books out.
The closed season ends and the fleet at French Harbour goes back out.
Four days of offshore competition, timed to the independence holiday.
Parades in Coxen Hole, then carnival on the west side into the night.
The low season, when West End dive shops run their own events against each other.
Peak week on the island. Flights, boats and rooms go months ahead.
The island airport, just east of Coxen Hole. Taxis wait outside arrivals; West End is about 20 minutes west.
The catamaran from La Ceiba on the mainland, about an hour and a quarter each way, twice daily in each direction. Check in an hour before.
Shared taxis run the one paved road linking Coxen Hole, French Harbour, Sandy Bay and West End. Flag one down, agree the fare first, pay in lempiras.
Boats shuttle West End to West Bay through the day, which beats the road. For the East End, hire a car: colectivos thin out past French Harbour.
Whole fried fish with plantain, the standard at any beach kitchen.
Invasive on this reef, so eating it is the one order that helps.
Conch simmered in coconut milk, the national dish and an island one.
Garifuna seafood and coconut soup poured over mashed plantain.
A coconut stew of crab, fish, shrimp and ripe plantain.
A flour tortilla folded over beans, cheese and cream. Breakfast everywhere.
Garifuna coconut bread, still warm if you time the bakery right.
The Garifuna herb and rum infusion, poured at Punta Gorda celebrations.
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