Port Louis is the working capital of Mauritius rather than a resort town, and one full day covers it. Walk the UNESCO-listed Aapravasi Ghat where indentured labour to the British empire began, work through the three halls of the Central Market, see the most complete dodo skeleton in the world at the Natural History Museum, and climb the Citadel for the harbour. Eat in Chinatown, then head back to the coast.
Mauritius sells itself on lagoons, so its capital usually gets skipped. Port Louis is where the island’s Indian, Chinese, Creole, French and British histories stack up in twenty walkable blocks between a container port and the Moka range. Come on a weekday morning, when the market and the offices are open at the same time.
The immigration depot where close to half a million indentured labourers landed between 1849 and 1923, and the reason most Mauritians are here. Sixteen stone steps and part of the hospital block survive, and the interpretation centre next door does the explaining. Entry is free and it closes on Sundays.
The bazaar runs across three halls: vegetables and pyramids of chilli on the ground floor, spices, vanilla and tea in the middle, hot food and juice upstairs. Traders quote a visitor price, so ask a second stall before you buy. It is at its best before nine and shuts at midday on Sunday.
Two of the rarest stamps in the world, the 1847 One Penny and Two Pence Post Office issues, alongside Mauritian maps, engravings and the original Paul et Virginie marble. The stamps are kept dark and lit for ten minutes at quarter past each opening hour, so time your arrival to the clock.
A British garrison fort of the 1830s on the hill above the racecourse, built to watch the town as much as the sea. The road up is steep and unshaded, and the reward is the whole amphitheatre of Port Louis, the harbour cranes and the Moka ridge behind it. Late afternoon is the light to come for.
One gallery and one reason to walk in: the Thirioux dodo, the most complete skeleton of the bird anywhere, built from bones a Port Louis barber collected around 1904. The rest is colonial-era taxidermy of species the island has also lost. Entry is free, and Wednesdays open late.
Mauritius has had a Chinese community since the late 18th century and this is its street: herbalists, boulette counters, a red gate at either end and murals down the side lanes. It is five minutes end to end, so treat it as lunch rather than a walking tour.
The Mauritius Turf Club has raced here since 1812, which makes it the oldest course in the southern hemisphere. The season runs roughly April to November on Saturdays and Sundays, and the September Maiden Cup fills the hill. On a quiet day it is a public park with an obelisk and a royal statue.
The 1996 harbour redevelopment, and the part of the capital built with visitors in mind: shops under coloured umbrellas, a craft market, cinemas, a casino and the Blue Penny Museum. Shops close around six and by noon on Sunday, while the restaurants and bars run much later.
The thumb-shaped peak you see from the market, and at 812 m the island’s third highest. Most walkers start at the Saint Pierre car park for a one to two hour return; from Port Louis itself it is a long half day. The final stretch is a scramble on rock that turns slick after rain.
An 1850s mosque behind carved teak doors on the edge of Chinatown, its courtyard built around an almond tree. Visitors are generally welcome outside prayer times: dress covered, leave shoes at the door and ask at the gate before going in.
The restored 19th-century post office by the quay: mail coaches, telegraph keys and the island’s stamp history.
Tristan Bréville’s private hoard of a thousand-plus cameras, including daguerreotypes made in Mauritius in 1840.
Inaugurated in 1822 and among the oldest theatres in the Indian Ocean. Long under restoration, so check the programme.
The Catholic seat of the island, rebuilt more than once on foundations laid in the 18th century.
Founded in 1842 above Les Salines, the oldest Chinese temple on the island and still in use.
A French colonial seat of 1738 at the head of the palm avenue, with Labourdonnais in bronze in front of it.
The bazaar’s upper floor: dholl puri, alouda and pressed juice, busiest between seven and ten.
Boulettes in clear broth and mine frite, ordered at the counter and eaten standing.
Model ships, basketry and spice packs under the waterfront arcade, at fixed prices.
The carts the bus crowd eats from, strongest on dholl puri and gateaux piments.
Chinatown’s original dining room, on the Royal Street corner, and still the dim sum reference.
Indian sweets, samosas and fried snacks off Royal Street. A counter, not a table.
A short steep climb straight off the city edge, with the harbour and Champ de Mars below.
Terraced gardens under a stone Virgin, the easiest view over the capital and free to walk up.
Royal palms running from the harbour to Government House, and the city’s civic front.
The Muslim quarter beyond the Citadel: snack shops, tailors and not a glass tower in sight.
Hillside terraces above the racecourse, climbing to the Marie Reine de la Paix gardens.
The old salt-pan quarter on the harbour’s south flank, with the Kwan Tee pagoda above it.
A sheltered marine park with rocky creeks worth snorkelling, past Baie du Tombeau.
A crater lake and the island’s main Hindu pilgrimage site, under two giant statues.
The seven coloured earths and a waterfall viewpoint on one ticket, in the south-west hills.
What is left of the native forest, free to enter, with marked trails to Alexandra Falls.
Tamil devotees carry the cavadee arch to the kovils after ten days of fasting, pierced with skewers.
Firecrackers, lion dances and wax cakes in Chinatown, with Royal Street closed to traffic.
Pilgrims in white walk to Grand Bassin from across the island, many setting out through the capital.
Mauritius raised its flag at Champ de Mars in 1968, and the anniversary is still marked there.
The Mauritius Turf Club’s biggest race of the year, and the day Champ de Mars fills the hill.
Two evenings of street stalls, dragon dances and open kitchens across the Chinatown grid.
A public holiday marked at Aapravasi Ghat, where the first indentured ships landed in 1834.
Oil lamps along walls and doorsteps across the city, and sweets handed between neighbours.
The island’s only international airport, 48 km south east at Plaine Magnien. Taxis take about 45 minutes; buses 9, 10 and 198 run the same trip for a fraction of the fare.
The light rail starts at Place d’Armes and runs south to Curepipe through Rose Hill, Quatre Bornes and Phoenix. Buy an MECard from a station machine: it costs less than single tickets.
Two terminals face each other across the centre: Victoria Square for the south and west, Immigration Square for the north and east. Fares are low and paid in cash on board.
Metered taxis are rare, so agree the fare before getting in and expect a premium after dark. Hotel desks and the Caudan rank quote fixed prices to the airport.
Thin split-pea flatbreads folded around bean curry, pickle and chilli. The island’s lunch.
Split-pea and chilli fritters, sold hot by the bagful from morning carts.
Steamed dumplings of fish, chicken or chayote in a clear broth, a Chinatown order.
Fried noodles with cabbage, carrot and garlic sauce, out of Sino-Mauritian kitchens.
Layered rice and meat cooked slowly over coals, the dish of weddings and Sundays.
A tomato, thyme and ginger stew, usually with sausage or salted fish, over rice.
Turmeric, mustard seed and vinegar over fried fish or octopus, served cool.
Chilled milk with basil seeds, agar jelly and vanilla. The market’s answer to chilli.
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