Give Napier three days. Spend the first on foot: the Art Deco Trust walk from Tennyson Street, MTG for the earthquake story, then Marine Parade at dusk. Day two is wine country, by bike on the flat trails or by car to Mission Estate, Church Road and Te Mata Peak. Day three, between October and April, take the tractor tour along the beach to the Cape Kidnappers gannets.
The earthquake of 3 February 1931 flattened Napier, and the city rebuilt itself in the style of the moment. That is the trip: a compact grid of art deco facades on a seafront parade, with Hawke's Bay wine country, Te Mata Peak and the gannets of Cape Kidnappers all within an hour.
The 10 best things to do in Napier
1
Walk the art deco city with the Art Deco Trust
Art deco· 7 Tennyson Street, Napier
Napier holds one of the world's most complete sets of 1930s buildings, and the Trust's guides know every facade. Walks start at the Art Deco Centre with a short film on the 1931 earthquake; check the day's departure times there.
The seafront was built on quake rubble, and its gardens hold the Sound Shell, the 1936 Tom Parker Fountain and the Pania statue, given to the city in 1954. Walk it at dusk. Do not swim here: the shingle drops away steeply.
The world's largest mainland gannet colony, reached along the beach because no road goes there. Gannet Beach Adventures tows trailers behind vintage tractors from Clifton at low tide, so departure times move daily.
The ridge behind Havelock North looks over the Heretaunga Plains, the Tukituki and the Pacific. Drive the narrow road to the summit, or walk the Giant Circuit through Te Mata Park, about two hours for 5.4 km.
French Marist missionaries planted vines in Hawke's Bay in 1851, and the estate calls itself the birthplace of New Zealand wine. The cellar door sits in the old seminary above Taradale; book the restaurant terrace for lunch.
The city's museum, theatre and gallery tells the 1931 earthquake from the people who lived through it, and holds a strong taonga Māori collection. General entry is free, which makes it the first stop on a wet day.
The flattest of the Hawke's Bay Trails: 35 km at grade 1, out along the coast to Bay View and back through the wetlands. Hire depots sit at the Ahuriri start, and the Wineries Ride continues the network south.
Built on a Second World War gun emplacement, the lookout stares straight down on the port's log yards and cranes, and on a clear day north to Mahia. The road up is steep and tight; walk via Sturm's Gully instead.
New Zealand's oldest prison opened in 1862 and held inmates until 1993. Self-guided audio tours run daily from 9am to 5pm with no booking, and you choose between the historical tour and the ghost tour.
The national aquarium sits at the south end of Marine Parade and covers New Zealand's own waters, from the reef offshore to freshwater species. It is the easiest family hour in the city when the wind gets up.
Three. One on foot for the art deco walk, MTG and Marine Parade, one in wine country by bike or car, and one for Cape Kidnappers or Te Mata Peak. Two days works if you skip the gannets.
Why is Napier an art deco city?+
The 1931 earthquake and the fires after it destroyed the centre, and the city was rebuilt over the next few years in the styles of the day. The result is one of the most complete groups of 1930s buildings anywhere.
Can you swim at Napier beach?+
Not off Marine Parade. The shingle drops away steeply and the stretch is unpatrolled. Swim at Westshore or Ahuriri north of the port, or at Ocean Beach and Waimārama, which are patrolled in summer.
When can you visit the Cape Kidnappers gannets?+
The tractor tours run roughly October to April, when the birds are nesting, and leave from Clifton on each day's low tide. Departure times change daily, so check the tide before you plan the day.
Do you need a car in Napier?+
Not in the city, which is compact and flat. For the wineries, Te Mata Peak and the beaches, a car or a hire bike on the Hawke's Bay Trails is the practical option, since buses are infrequent.
Rebuilt in 1931
Best art deco in Napier
Eight buildings that show why the rebuild is the reason to come.
City centre
Daily Telegraph Building
Zig zag moderne · 1932
Ernest Williams' 1932 design, the city's deco facade at its most ornate.