Start at Fort Jesus at opening, then walk the Old Town lanes to the Old Port and eat biryani on the way. Give a day to the reef: snorkel the marine park off Nyali or cross the Likoni ferry to Diani. Add Haller Park, a dhow dinner on Tudor Creek and a morning at the ruins of Jumba la Mtwana.
Updated · Wimup Editorial
Kenya's second city and its oldest port, built on a coral island where Swahili, Arab, Portuguese and Indian histories overlap. The Old Town and Fort Jesus hold the story; the beaches north and south of the island are where most visitors sleep.
The Portuguese fort of the 1590s, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2011, and the best single key to the coast's past. Go at opening, before the heat and the tour groups, then walk the ramparts for the view over the harbour mouth.
Narrow lanes of coral-stone houses with carved doors and timber balconies, running from Fort Jesus to the Old Port past the Mandhry Mosque. Walk it in the late afternoon, dress modestly, and hire a local guide for the doors and stories you would otherwise miss.
The south coast's long white beach, about 35 km from the island across the Likoni channel, with a reef offshore that calms the water. Leave early to beat the ferry queue, and book boat trips through your hotel or a licensed operator.
A protected reef lagoon just offshore from the north-coast beaches, reached by glass-bottom boat or small dhow. Go at low tide for the clearest water, and check that the boat price includes the Kenya Wildlife Service park fee.
A worked-out cement quarry replanted from the 1970s into forest, ponds and grassland, now home to giraffes, hippos, crocodiles and giant tortoises. Time the visit to a giraffe feeding and ask for the day's schedule at the gate.
An evening dhow that sails Tudor Creek below the Old Town and Fort Jesus, serving a seafood dinner on deck. Book a day ahead and choose the sunset sailing, when the light on the old waterfront is best.
Two pairs of crossed tusks over Moi Avenue, first raised for Princess Elizabeth's visit in 1952 and now the city's emblem. Pair them with a walk down Moi Avenue towards Biashara Street, the place to buy kikoi and kanga cloth.
The island's main produce market, a covered hall of mangoes, coconuts and spices with traders spilling into the lanes outside. Go in the morning, carry small notes, and ask before photographing anyone.
Run by the Association for the Physically Disabled of Kenya, its workshops make jewellery, printed textiles and carvings beside a cultural centre of traditional homesteads. Go on a weekday, when the workshops are working.
A Swahili town of the 14th and 15th centuries on the shore north of Mtwapa Creek, its mosques, tombs and houses built in coral stone under baobabs. Go in the cool of the morning, then take a seafood lunch on the creek.
A community sanctuary in the hills, best combined with Shimba Hills.
Forested hills inland of the south coast, one of the few homes of the sable antelope.
Diani's kitesurfing competition, run on the steady northeast monsoon winds.
The fasting month, when Old Town food stalls come alive after sunset.
The end of Ramadan, marked with prayers, new clothes and family feasts.
A national holiday marking self-rule in 1963.
The agricultural society's week-long trade fair at the Mkomani showground.
Heroes' Day, a national holiday honouring those who fought for independence.
Floats, music and costumes parading through the city centre.
Independence Day, a national holiday on the eve of the peak beach season.
Moi International Airport sits on the mainland at Port Reitz, about 10 km from the centre, with frequent flights to Nairobi and some international routes.
The Madaraka Express runs daily to Nairobi from Mombasa Terminus at Miritini, about 11 km from the centre. Economy is KSh 1,500, first class KSh 4,500.
The Likoni ferry crosses to the south coast around the clock. Foot passengers ride free and vehicles pay a toll; allow time for queues at peak hours.
Tuk-tuks cover short hops on the island, and Uber and Bolt run across the city. Matatus are cheap but crowded; agree any tuk-tuk fare first.
Mombasa's festive rice, layered with spiced meat and potatoes.
Rice cooked in stock with cumin, cardamom and cloves.
Cardamom doughnuts with pigeon peas in coconut, the coast breakfast.
Potatoes in a turmeric batter, fried and served with chilli.
Marinated beef skewers grilled over charcoal at night.
Grilled fish in a coconut and tamarind sauce.
Bitter spiced coffee poured from a brass pot, with kashata.
Egg and minced meat wrapped in thin dough and fried on a griddle.
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