The best things to do in Iquitos are a morning in Belén market, a boat to the Pilpintuwasi butterfly farm, the manatees at the Amazon Rescue Center, sunset on the Malecón Tarapacá and the Ayapua boat museum. Give the city two days, then spend two or more in the forest at Allpahuayo-Mishana, a lodge downriver or Pacaya-Samiria.
Iquitos is the capital of Loreto and the largest city in the Peruvian Amazon, and no road reaches it from the rest of the country. Rubber money built its tiled riverfront. The reason to come now is the forest and the rivers that start at its edge.
The city's great market spills down to the Itaya: river fish, aguaje, suri grubs on skewers and, on Pasaje Paquito, stalls of medicinal barks and tinctures. Go early, when it is busiest, and keep valuables out of sight.
A butterfly farm and animal orphanage in the village of Padre Cocha, home to rescued monkeys, a jaguar and a tapir alongside the flight house. The short boat ride over the Nanay is half the point.
About 2 million hectares of flooded forest between the Marañón and the Ucayali, home to pink river dolphins, giant otters and paiche. It is a trip of three days or more, by lodge, community camp or river cruise.
The riverfront promenade runs past tiled rubber-boom mansions and the Old Hotel Palace, with the Itaya and its floodplain below. It fills at dusk with vendors, families and street performers.
A river steamer built in Hamburg in 1906 for the rubber trade, now the Museo de Barcos Históricos. The decks cover explorers, rubber barons and the filming of Herzog's Fitzcarraldo.
A rehabilitation centre for Amazonian manatees orphaned by hunting, with monkeys, otters and turtles also in its care. Calves are bottle-raised and released to the wild once grown.
A house of bolted iron plates shipped from Europe in pieces during the rubber boom. Eiffel is credited locally; the evidence points to a Belgian foundry. Look at it, then the cathedral across the square.
The closest protected forest to the city, on white-sand soils with a bird list of more than 500 species, including the Iquitos gnatcatcher found nowhere else. Trails start near the ranger post.
A floating restaurant moored on the Itaya, reached by its own boat from a door on Avenida La Marina. Order the river fish: patarashca, doncella or paiche, then swim in the floating pool.
The one road out of Iquitos runs to Nauta on the Marañón. From there a boat reaches the meeting of the Marañón and the Ucayali, where the river takes the name Amazon.
The city marks its official founding date, 5 January 1864.
Costumed dancing round the húmisha tree; national cultural heritage since 2023.
Holy Week processions, and fish juane on the Easter table.
Mass and procession, followed by street festivities.
The big one, on 24 June: river bathing, Mass, bands and juane everywhere.
On 28 June the saint travels by boat to the river communities.
Peru's independence holiday, 28 and 29 July, with parades.
Punchana's patron feast in the first week, ending in a procession.
About 7 km south-west of the centre, with direct flights from Lima. A taxi or mototaxi covers the ride; agree the fare first.
Three-wheelers are how Iquitos moves. There are no meters, so settle the price before you sit down.
Puerto Bellavista-Nanay serves Padre Cocha and the lodges. Fast boats run downriver to Santa Rosa on the border in 10 to 14 hours.
The only road out of the city, about 100 km south to Nauta, past Quistococha and Allpahuayo-Mishana.
Spiced rice, chicken, olive and egg, steamed in a bijao leaf.
Mashed green plantain with smoked pork and chorizo.
River fish steamed or grilled in bijao leaves with tomato and onion.
Chicken soup thickened with ground peanuts and herbs.
The giant river fish, grilled, fried or in ceviche.
Palm-weevil grubs, grilled on skewers in the markets.
The orange palm fruit, eaten fresh or as juice and ice cream.
A sour river fruit, best as a juice.
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