▶ Watch the guide Swim first. Nissi Beach and Konnos Bay are the reason the town exists, and the water is warm from May to October. Then walk the coastal path east into Cape Greco for the sea caves, and back through the square for the monastery, whose chapel is built into the cave where the icon was found. The clubs are real and they are optional: the town closes its bars around a fishing harbour that still lands fish.
Ayia Napa is two resorts sharing one postcode. One is the club strip off the square that made the name famous in the 1990s. The other is a Blue Flag coastline, a Venetian monastery and a national forest park of sea caves, and it is the half most visitors actually come for. Fewer than 5,000 people live here year round.
The 500-metre bay that built the resort, and still the best swim in it. A sandbar runs out to the islet the beach is named for, shallow enough to wade at most tides, which is why families and party boats end up on the same strip of sand.
A limestone headland declared a national forest park in 1993, with sea caves cut up to 80 metres into the cliff. The coastal path from Ayia Napa strings together the Love Bridge, the Kavos viewpoint and the Agioi Anargyroi chapel above the water.
The town grew around this. A Venetian-era monastery in the form of a castle, built over the cave where a hunter is said to have found the icon of the Virgin of Napa, and the chapel is still partly underground. Entry is free and the courtyard is the coolest spot in town.
Every boat out of the fishing harbour runs the same coast: the sea caves, the cliffs under Cape Greco, then the Blue Lagoon at Konnos for a swim stop. A catamaran is calmer than a party boat, and both leave from the same quay.
Twenty thousand square metres of scrub on the cliff road, holding more than 50 contemporary sculptures added each year by the municipality's own symposium. It is free, open sunrise to sunset, and almost empty at both ends of the day.
Built around Kyrenia II, a full-scale sailing replica of a 4th-century BC merchant ship wrecked off Kyrenia. The original was found in 1967; the replica was built in Piraeus between 1982 and 1985 and sailed itself to Cyprus along the old trade route.
Thirty-odd rides on an ancient Greek theme, from the Quest of Heracles to one of Europe's larger wave pools. The season runs from early April to late autumn, and the gate price is €50 for adults and €30 for children aged 3 to 12.
A pine-backed cove on the Cape Greco road, and the calmest water within reach of the town. Boats anchor off it as the Blue Lagoon stop, so it is busiest in the middle of the day and yours in the early morning.
Nineteen rock-cut chamber tombs, a sanctuary and an ancient quarry above Makronissos beach, excavated by the municipality in 1989 and 1990. The chambers are near identical: a sunken trench down the middle, three benches around it.
The town's newest quarter, 600 berths including 38 for superyachts, wrapped in a promenade of restaurants and lounge bars. It is where Ayia Napa goes when it wants an evening that is not the square, and the walk out along the breakwater is free.
The cultural centre looks across at the quarter sealed off since 1974.
The start of Orthodox Lent, and a public holiday spent outdoors over a meat-free picnic.
Sprint to middle distance out of Nissi Bay, in about 20C air and 18C water.
The waterpark opens for the season and runs through to late autumn.
The biggest date in the Cypriot year. Expect closures on Good Friday and Easter Monday.
Three days at the harbour: a blessing, diving for the cross, and a lot of grilled fish.
A free concert at the harbour with Cypriot and visiting performers.
Running since 1985, timed to World Tourism Day. Dance and music in the monastery square.
Five days of crafts, food from wooden barrels and costumed processions in the square.
The island's main airport and the one to fly into, about 45 minutes away by road. Paphos is the alternative at roughly two hours.
A shared airport shuttle is the cheap scheduled option and takes about 50 minutes. A pre-booked taxi runs to a fixed fare; a metered one costs half as much again at night.
The cheapest link to Larnaca, run by OSEA, roughly 60 to 75 minutes end to end. It serves Larnaca town rather than the airport terminal.
OSEA town routes reach Nissi Beach and the waterpark every 15 to 20 minutes in summer, and 101 and 102 run out to Cape Greco and Protaras. Cyprus drives on the left.
The island's protected-origin cheese. It grills and fries without melting.
Big chunks of pork or lamb turned slowly over charcoal. The Sunday default.
Minced pork and onion wrapped in caul fat, grilled until it renders.
Lamb sealed in a clay oven with garlic, lemon and oregano until it falls apart.
Twenty-odd small plates arriving in waves. Do not order anything else.
Fried dough balls in honey syrup with cinnamon. Sold late on the square.
Vine leaves rolled around rice and mince, the Cypriot take on dolmades.
Pork braised in red wine with crushed coriander seed. Order it in winter.
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