Narikala Fortress

A glass cable car floats from Rike Park over the river and lands you at Narikala, the fortress that has guarded Tbilisi since the 4th century. The ramparts give the whole city in one sweep: tiled bath domes, leaning balconies, the river bend and the aluminium Mother Georgia raising her sword and wine bowl.

• The ramparts, scramble-friendly walls with the Old Town straight below.
• Mother Georgia, sword for enemies, wine for guests; the statue explains the country.
• St Nicholas Church, rebuilt inside the fortress courtyard.
• The botanical garden, the green valley hidden directly behind the walls.

Sunset is prime time; ride up an hour early and hold your spot on the west wall. The paths are uneven and unfenced in places, wear real shoes and mind kids near edges.

The cable car leaves from Rike Park and takes two minutes; the walking path down empties into Abanotubani’s bath quarter, which is the correct order for the evening.